There are what feels like endless options for cutting beef. When I started selling meat I had to learn animals from nose to tail. Pigs are pretty simple; when it comes to the cut sheet I can work my way from the back of the hog to front. There are only so many options with pork, but beef is another matter entirely. The first time I had to tell my butcher how I wanted my cows done was a difficult exercise and not fun…for either of us. “What the hell even is a mock tender and why don’t you know what tri-tip is? I’m going to get how many hundred pounds of ground beef?!” It turns out there are a lot of regional differences and preferences when it comes to cutting meat. For example, folks in the mid Atlantic don’t love hangar steaks and tri tip roasts the way West Coast carnivores do. Also about 50% of the cow comes back as ground beef. So what about the rest? We’ve got ribs, roasts, and of course steak.

Where do I start with steak? I have grown to love steak deeply. I didn’t know how much I could love steak. We didn’t eat much steak when I was growing up and steak was always the thing dads did at cookouts or people ordered when dining out. I didn’t conceptualize steak as something I should cook myself with any regularity until I started farming. I have a different relationship with steak now; I don’t order steak at restaurants, but I eat it at home regularly. Steaks make amazing quick weeknight dinners. I’m not saving myself for Saturday night---forget that noise. I’m eating a New York Strip on a Tuesday because I am already behind on everything and need protein I can cook in 15 minutes. I hope that you will also treat yourself to steak on Tuesdays because you’re worth it and it’s practically patriotic. Steak is as beloved as bacon and as American as apple pie.

Are you not sure where to start with steak? Never cooked a grass-finished steak before? Familiar with the usual suspects, but want to branch out and see other people? I got you. I’ve jotted down my steak gospel and love notes to an assortment of beloved cuts here.

1) Fat= flavor. This is why bacon is so freaking good and why marbling is prized (fun fact: marbling does not always equal tenderness). Please don’t trim too much fat before you cook your steaks. It won’t hurt you I promise. It will give your steak flavor and moisture while it cooks. For additional flavor, see also: bone in cuts.

2) Rest is best. Ok so I’ve convinced you to go ahead and have steak for dinner on a Tuesday and you’re ready to grab those steaks from the fridge and sling them onto the stove. SLOW YOUR ROLL! You are going to want to let those steaks warm up and get to room temp, so take them out, salt and pepper both sides and let them hang out before you start cooking. This will make them better and I promise it is worth the wait. Similarly, as soon as you’re done cooking them you’re going to be tempted to eat them immediately because they smell so damn good. STOP! Let the steaks rest for 10 minutes before you cut and eat them—this is a critical step because the juices will redistribute, it will be more delicious, and therefore more enjoyable to eat. You’ve come this far, hang in there another 10 minutes (longer for roasts or big steaks).

3) Don’t overdo it. You don’t need to eat steak well done, and especially not a grass finished one. Grass finished and fed meats have different fats and are leaner—and grass finished steaks won’t be at their best if you cook them well done because they won’t have the moisture. If you love well-done beef I will steer you to a roast, ground beef, or one of our burger patties because I don’t want you to be disappointed. New Roots Farm steaks are at their best when they medium, medium rare, or rare. Cook your steak for a few minutes on each side, get a good sear, baste it in its juices or a little ghee or butter from the pan, and if you want to finish it in the oven.

In a more philosophical sense don’t overdo it with the steak prep. You don’t need a fancy marinade or rare spice rub for a good steak, though I do believe there is a time and a place for those things. A good steak sets itself apart by being amazing all on its own---like a pair of jeans that fits just right. A good steak is delicious and tender, needing only salt and pepper, and if you’re feeling a little extra some fresh herbs, garlic, or butter. I sear mine with a little fresh rosemary or garlic.

4) You don’t have to be a gear head. Yeah sous vide is cool, but you don’t need more than a good skillet, tongs and a meat thermometer to cook a steak worthy of being a fine steakhouse centerpiece. I cook my steaks in a cast iron skillet on the stovetop and following my gospel of simplicity and quick timing they turn out delicious every time. Also, some of you need to hear this—stop cutting into your steak while its cooking and letting all those amazing juices out. Your meat thermometer is your new best friend and will help you figure out exactly how you like your steaks and cook them as you like them every. dang. time.

5) Tenderness is overrated. Remember rule #1? Fat=flavor? Well movement also equals flavor. Muscles that move develop more depth of flavor, and with this comes texture. People will tell you chuck roast is a cheap cut because it comes from the shoulder, where it does a lot of moving and work, and is tough. Don’t ever insult chuck roast in front of me. I will have a rage stroke, say hurtful things I can’t take back, and it will forever be weird for both of us. Chuck roast is one of my favorite cuts because it has incredible flavor and when cooked properly, falls apart, and is not tough at all. I would rather eat a chuck roast over a filet mignon any day of the week. I am not sure why people are so concerned with tenderness. I understand no one wants to eat jerky or beef that has the texture of shoe leather, but a little chewing never hurt anyone, and you can coax the most wonderful flavors and food experiences from cuts that are considered “tougher.”

Still with me?

Have you seen “to all the boys I’ve loved before?” It’s a film based on a YA novel. In the film and book the protagonist is a quiet, smart, and endearing young woman navigating the trials of adolescence. When she has crushes she deals with them by writing letters to them, which she keeps hidden in a box, and has no plans to mail. Well, somewhat predictably, her sister mails the letters and she must then deal with the fallout. I kept thinking about this story—and how the love interests were written and the letters structured. The boys were a familiar cast of characters and for some reason it made me think about steaks. One the one hand, my brain is clearly broken. One the other hand steaks fit into these stereotypes and characterizations easily. And then I thought—what would I say if I was being honest to steaks? What if people knew my true feelings about steak? Who would the different cuts be in a high school romantic comedy? So I wrote love letters to steaks. Pardon my personification, but here they are:

The popular pretty one: Filet Mignon

I know everyone loves you and you’re for indulgent or special occasions, but I’m over you. You’re tender, but you don’t have the flavor I love. I need more texture and your mild flavor doesn’t excite me the way other steaks do. Like a first love you were part of my steak journey; you served your purpose as I learned how to cook steaks and entertain dinner guests. You rarely fall short of anyone’s expectations. I wish you the best and know you will find your soul mate, a cook who loves your delicate nature and consistency.

The one from homecoming: New York Strip

If a steak was going to give me a letterman jacket, plan an elaborate promposal, and whisk me away for a magical night in a gymanisum it would be a New York Strip. Like a homecoming night you’re outside of the everyday and a little bit special occasion, without being too far outside of anyone’s comfort zone. Perfect for a memorable evening. You aren’t as glam and popular as a filet mignon, but you’re still on the varsity team and being nominated for prom royalty. You’re tender enough without being too soft or bland, and everyone loves you. Not over the top though because you’re cool too—just badass enough that when you’re ordered, either at a butcher counter or restaurant, everyone who knows steaks gives a slight approving nod. It won’t matter if you take home the homecoming crown because everyone was too busy having a good time and making memories. You’re never an outsider when you’re dining or cooking with a New York Strip.

The one from summer camp: Skirt Steak

Skirt steak, you’re the one I’m drawn to when I am being my most authentic self without pretense or unrealistic aspirations. At summer camp we get to be free, fun, and outside our regularly scheduled obligations and expectations. And just like camp friendships you’re accessible. You are a cheap, common cut, and because of this so endearing. I love your deep flavor. Like a shy or guarded person you have a toughness that requires something acidic to break you down, or a long soak before you show your soft side, and you are the perfect understated summer dinner centerpiece. You’re perfect for tacos and grilling. I love you equally at a sit down dinner or when I’m standing upright devouring tacos in the summer heat without a care in the world.

The boy next door: Lamb Leg

Lamb leg, you’ve been here this whole time and I didn’t realize what I was missing until I saw you with new eyes. You carry the lamb so you’ve got more texture and flavor than other steaks. You show up. You do the work. You’re also low maintenance. I can cook you just like a regular steak on a weeknight---you’re here for me when I need an easy quick meal or when I want to host dear friends and loved ones for dinner. You fit in with my friends and all types of seasonal vegetable sides. Your little cross section of bone filled with marrow is sweet, and the perfect treat for spreading on bread. You’re the friend who shows up with wine or dessert after a long day. I will spend the rest of my life making up for lost time. We can ride off into the sunset with a cast iron skillet and some rosemary. It will be all we need.

The one from Model UN: Delmonico

You don’t get the attention that the popular steaks do, but you bring a lot to the table, both literally and figuratively. Because you come from a cut that starts in the chuck and goes to the short loin you have great flavor, but you’re still very tender. Arguably the second most tender steak. Just like your SAT scores, you’re in the top of the marbling class and it doesn’t go unnoticed. When they grade steaks you’re the cut that is chosen to grade a carcass. You ARE the class ranking. Like a good resume you’ve got depth and will stand out next to other cuts. Delmonico you are the intellectual equal my nerd heart has been searching for. I will never get tired of you because you will always have something smart to say and be fun to engage with. We will stay friends long after we’ve graduated and started our adult lives. You are my ride or die steak.

To all the steaks I've loved before, unsent love letters and confessions from your farmer.